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On a fairway carved out of a mountainside at the tip of the Baja peninsula of Mexico, Nicklaus stands in the rapturously warm air above the Pacific Ocean as he makes a final site visit to his sixth golf course in the Los Cabos region, a place where his name and his artistry have transformed the tourist landscape going back nearly 30 years.
Here at the Quivira Golf Club, at the center of a new residential and hotel development at Cabo San Lucas, the most decorated and heralded golfer of all time is again making his mark, as he has done at nearly 380 golf courses around the world.
The Golden Bear is leaving another set of paw prints along a prodigious journey that will not end soon.
And it wouldn't be Jack Nicklaus without another set of small alterations on this final visit, each one directed at the playability of the course for the average player.
The man of 18 major championships has become the champion of the man with the 18 handicap.
And here on Quivira's spectacular short par 4 fifth hole that perches on the edge of the Pacific, that's what he's talking about. Those weren't on the drawing," says Nicklaus, a man of an elephantine mind, to his design assistant Chris Cochran.
Nicklaus has designed this short par 4, driveable by big hitters who can blast a ball about 270 directly to the green, to be reachable by the little guy who hits a career shot that sails maybe 240 down the fairway with the ball spilling over the edge and rolling down the steep slope all the way to the green.
But as he plays the hole in his mind's eye, he's noticed a problem—the mounds get in the way.
"It's what I designed and what you changed," says Nicklaus, a hint of irritation in his voice.