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Follow the crack through various sizes to a crux at the top.
Locate the 30 foot tall splitter crack on the west face of the huge boulder.
Though it receives a boulder rating of V2, most people prefer to bring gear rather than face the offensive possibilty of a 30 foot grounder at the crux. Single rack to #2 or #3 c4 if building an anchor should be more than enough to sew it up.
The holds on the face definitely bring down the difficulty a notch, especially because it is so short.
Ton a fun though and absolutely classic, definitely worth bringing a small rack to Rumney just for this!
There is a pretty easy scramble to the top of this boulder on the back side.
There is no bolt on top, but there are some great placements to build a trad anchor up there if you want to TR.
Bring some extra cord/webbing to extend it, and maybe something to protect your cord/webbing over the edge!
Can't wait to try it on lead, but I need to work on my crack technique first. Rack from 0.3 to #2 with doubles in 0.4 and 0.75 will suffice.
The #1 and #2 are for the gear anchor but other sizes would work (Lots of gear on top).